The Bulb Maven

Sowing Seeds

I have poted before on sowing seeds, and one post can be seen here:  http://thebulbmaven.typepad.com/the_bulb_maven/2008/12/sowing-seeds.html  I think, however, it is worth a recap, since winter is the time that most seed sowing goes on at Telos.

All seed of species native to the western USA is sown in the fall. I used to direct sow the seed into pots, but found a much better way of doing it.  All seeds are put in plastic ziplock bags in damp vermiculite, then put in the refrigerator.  I usually do this in late October, and definitely want it all done by the end of November, earlier is better.  In this way, in just one day I can have all the seed bagged up and refrigerated instead of mixing mountains of potting soil, washing pots and filling them, then carrying them all out to the greenhouses.  Seed will vary in the amount of time it takes for them to germinate, so I check the bags weekly and pull any that show any sign of germination.  Some Calochortus seed germinates in two to three weeks, other species (especially from high altitude) can take as long as four months, so the actual sowing is spread out over the entire winter.  By the end of winter, I discard any bags that haven't shown germination. Usually, if the seed is non-viable, it goes moldy.  Above is a bag of Calochortus seeds ready to sow.

Seed of South African species are also sown at the same time of year than the natives, but these seeds need a diurnal swing of at least 10 degrees Fahrenheit.  If you refrigerate them, they don't germinate, so these ones are sown directly into the pots in which they will grow.  South African Amaryllids, such as Brunsvigia, are sown as soon as the seed is ripe.  If I am receiving seed from South Africa, that means as soon as I get it, even though that means the seed is germinating at the 'wrong' time of year as far as our seasons are concerned.  It doesn't seem to matter, they do fine, and will grow continuously without going dormant for the first year.  Such seed can't be stored, they are like small peas and will even germinate on the plant.

Seed of South American Amaryllid species are also sown when ripe.  They are not like the South African seeds, having a papery shell, and can usually be stored for fairly short periods. Up to three months is perfectly safe.  These species I also bag in vermiculite and keep at room temperature.  There are other ways of germinating these seeds, such as floating them on water, but I don't find I have better results that way.  I have also tried folding seeds in damp paper towels, but you really have to keep an eye on them, if you let them go too long the radicle will penetrate the paper towels, and you have a mess on your hands.  Other South American species that are winter growers, such as Leucocoryne behave like our native bulbs, and are treated the same way.

 

As soon as any germination is seen, the seeds are sown in pots or large trays.  I live in a valley with high humidity in the winter, not the best conditions for seed survival.  It is extremely important to have good air circulation for the developing seedlings, or you can lose the lot to damping off fungus.  I have overhead fans in the greenhouses, but, more important, are the fans that blow air directly across the seed flats 24 hours a day.  The trays are topped with pumice to keep the surface dry.

Here, at Telos, seed sowing is the major task for early winter, but even for hobbyists it can be very challenging and fun.  I lost so many precious batches of seeds early in my career as a bulb grower and still occasionally have failures, usually due to severe weather.

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Seeds

My two helpers will be coming today, and I have work all lined up for them.  This time of year, everything seems to come crowded together, getting late season orders out, replanting some species that have started growing in the bins, repotting trays that need the bulbs moved up to larger containers, and many, many more.  One important job is cleaning all the seeds collected in the nursery over the season.  This was a great year for seed.  I am not quite sure why, but maybe using a better mix that is mostly pumice for the Mediterranean climate bulbs and new fans that circulate air a lot better all played a role.  Weather, of course, is critical also.  I have had some years when I have gathered almost no seed from my Calochortus collection, and since there are no commercial sources for most of these seeds, I must get them myself.  I don't have time to travel to do so, enjoyable as it is, so I am dependent on my own bulbs for seed.

Today my helpers will be cleaning seed and putting the seed in envelopes.  I will sort through them and decide which will be sown and which will be saved for next year.  It is an old adage that you should never sow all your seed.  You never know what the winter will hold, and last winter I lost many trays to damping off even with treating the seedlings and excellent air circulation.  This is not a small job, and after they are packaged and sorted, many will be sown in plastic bags in damp vermiculite then placed in the refrigerator.   As soon as there is any sign of germination, they are taken out and sown in the greenhouses.  This spreads the sowing of seeds all through the winter, for some will promptly germinate, others might take four months.  For people not experienced with California native bulbs, this can be confusing.  It isn't like tomatoes, these bulbs need cool temperatures to germinate, then grow through the winter.  Warm temperatures inhibit germination, so the refrigerator is a safe place with appropriate temperatures to start their germination cycle.  Some seeds from Mediterranean climates, such as South African seeds, need a diurnal swing in temperature of at least 10C, so those seeds are sown directly in trays in the greenhouse.

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Seeds

For a business like Telos, where almost all bulbs are grown from seed, you need a LOT of seed, and sowing and harvesting seed goes on year round.  The summer growing bulbs, like the bulbs from South America, ripen seed anywhere from mid-spring to early winter, and since those seeds are only viable for a fairly short period of time, they are usually sown right away.  Most of the species I grow are simply unavailable commercially, so I depend on my own plants to produce the seed I need and I often swap seed with other collectors of a genus.  Hippeastrum seed can be sown directly in a flat, floated on water to start them, or put in a plastic zip-lock bag with damp vermiculite to get them started, then sown. I use the plastic bag method, since I usually have a lot of seed and I get better results than sowing directly.  I leave the bags at room temperature for these species, then sow them when the radicle appears.

Two days ago I went south to gather some Calochortus amabilis seed.  I have been to the same spot three times, although not for the past two years.  Both times I went in early July and the seed was still a bit green, but this year I was way too late, the pods dry and empty, probably due to our very dry winter. The day was not lost, however.  I stopped on the Eel River coming home with my three dogs and we all had a great time splashing around in the water, which, this year is only about a foot deep.  This is a big river, and it often dwindles in late August, but not usually as much as this. With the weather overcast, there were no other people out.  I was glad, since my dogs are a bit reactive (I don't mean aggressive) to noise and movement, and if there are small children playing it can be a bit overwhelming for them, so we had the place all to ourselves.  Some larger dogs see them as prey and we have had some horrible encounters, so I am always cautious.

Imagine my delight when my few bulbs of Sprekelia howardii sent up two flowers simultaneously.  I have had this rare species in my collection for some time, but I have never got seed from them.  I carefully pollinated both flowers, and now have a fat seed pod ripening.  Why only one made a seed pod I couldn't guess.  Another flower is emerging, so I am hopeful that I will get another pod.

My two helpers spent an entire morning cleaning seeds collected in the nursery. Not an unpleasant job. With little Gwendolyn nearby, they have an opportunity to chat to each other and the day, for a change, was rainy.

 

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Propagating Bulbs

A friend and his wife visited the nursery recently and commented on the trays I use to sow seeds and the divisions from twin-scaled bulbs.  They are actually meant to hold pots called bands, but when I bought them for that purpose, as soon as I saw them I knew I had found the ideal flat for growing bulbs.  They measure 15.75" (40cm) x 15.75" (40cm) x 6" (15.2cm).  I had long dreamed of a pot with a mesh bottom to allow even, rapid drainage that bulbs need.  I had, in the past, grown some seedlings in large round pots that were about 12" deep, but I had to drill extra holes in the bottom, and still the medium would be much wetter in the center than around the edges of the pots, and I often found I lost the seedlings in the center of the pot.  I have to line the flats with something so that the medium doesn't fall through, and I have used landscape fabric, but I am currently using row cover fabric cut into squares.  Any kind of mesh will work as long as it lets water drain evenly and rapidly.

I sow fairly large quantities of seed, so I will sow directly into the flats.  I have on occasion put dividers in the flats and sown two different kinds of seeds that need the same conditions.  The seedling bulbs are left in the flats for about two years then transplanted into whatever size pot they like.  Some bulbs, like Rhodophiala, absolutely require a deep pot, while others can stay in the flats if they are smaller bulbs and don't need the root room a deep pot provides.  Almost all my Oxalis are grown in these flats.

Here are some flats of Amaryllid seedlings covered with shade cloth.

 

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Where There's Smoke .....

When I first became obsessed with bulbs and other plants with underground storage organs, I wanted to grow everything I could, and ordered seeds from around the world.  I grew a number of Australian species, mostly to learn about them and see what they were like.  There are few true bulbs in Australia (Calostemma is one), but there are many, many plants that have unusual underground storage organs, or have thick rhizomes.

I found out soon that seeds of Australian natives can be extremely difficult to germinate, some only sprouting soon after a bush fire.  I wrote off to an Australian university (this was pre-internet) and they promptly responded with reprints of several research articles on smoke and why it can stimulate seeds to germinate.  It most definitely is the smoke that does the trick, not the heat from the flames and not the nutrients in ash, both of which have been suggested.  I tried a number of experiments.  In those days growing bulbs was an absorbing hobby, and I had more time to try different things out.  I used smoke, smoke water (made from filter papers impregnated with smoke) and various other modalities, but it was always the smoke that did the trick.

Here is my method.  I sow the seeds in a clay pot, cover the pots with a mound of dry material (I have tried grass, eucalyptus, and now alfalfa hay) and set fire to it.  It doesn't seem to matter what I use as long as it makes plenty of smoke, so if the material is very dry I add some green stuff for more smoke.  I keep the fire going for about five minutes or more and let it die down, then remove any unburned material and water.  Germination usually occurs in about 30 days.

This weekend I sowed seeds of Thysanotus species.  I have grown these wonderful plants before and brought them to bloom, but I have no pictures, since it was before digital photography, and I was useless with a film camera.  I hope in the future to be able to post on this wonderful Australian genus.  The flowers are blue or lilac, and have fringed petals, quite unlike anything else.

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The Morning Walkabout

I usually post on the Walkabout of things that are blooming in the greenhouse or the garden, and sometimes sightings of special things like the time I saw two bald eagles fall out of the sky locked together in play or combat. Two days ago, however, my walkabout was somewhere else in the Sierra foothills, where I had gone on a very quick trip to gather some seed.

I used to live in that area, and I know it well. It is an area very rich in bulbs, so I can estimate the best time to go back to collect some seed, and I usually get it right. Every year is a bit different, but when we were in the area a month ago for our wildflower hiking and camping trip, I checked out several areas and found abundant bloom. This was actually unusual for this year, for it hasn't been a good year for flowers or seed production, but in two of the areas I visited, there had been massive clearing of brush along the roads, apparently for fire prevention, and in those areas the bloom was impressive, often in places where there had been little evidence of any bulbs existing at all. It has been postulated that after wildfires, which are frequent in this area, the blooming of bulbs is stimulated by the smoke produced by the fire, since smoke can stimulate seed germination and, possibly, flower production in bulbs. Other theories attribute the blooming to the release of nutrients through the ash produced. Well, in these areas there was no ash and no smoke, so it seems that it might just be the removal of competing vegetation or the exposure to more sunlight and warmth.

Most of my seed collecting takes place along the roads where the seed will fall in the ditches or on the road itself, so I certainly don't feel guilty about gathering the few pods I need. Our first stop was to collect some seeds of the beautiful pink flowered form of Calochortus tolmiei pcitured here. The seed pods are pendulous, and if the weather warms up suddenly they will open and drop the seeds all at once, so these seeds are not easy to time right. This time it worked well. Our next stop was at higher elevation for seeds of Calochortus monophyllus, where colonies stretch for miles along both sides of the road. The plants are so small that the seed pods can even bury themsleves in the duff, so they are very hard to see.

Our last stop was along a beautiful road that travels along a huge pool where water from the spillway of the Oroville dam falls. Here there are colonies of Calochortus albus growing on steep cliffs. It was very early morning, and the sun was rising, bathing the whole area in a golden glow and reflecting off the pool, with resident flocks of Canada geese flying low across the water. Acorn woodpeckers were chattering, mockingbirds singing, and many other birds in chorus. It felt like heaven.

I had to return home that day, a long seven hour drive, with one quick stop along the way to check out an area where Fritillaria purdyi grows, and was happy to find a couple in bloom, although most are in bud at this time.

We drove down our driveway at 6pm, right when the solar eclipse was at its maximum. I wanted so much to see it, but rushing around, getting the dogs squared away and my things out of the car, I pretty much gave up. Then I came down the stairs of the barn, and there dancing on the floor of the barn were dozens of 'rings of fire', the perfect image of the eclipse projected on the floor of the barn from the sunlight filtering through the leaves of the trees outside. I was thrilled.

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Sowing Seeds

The big seed sowing takes place in autumn and early winter here at Telos.  This is due to the fact that the majority of bulbs grown here are from Mediterranean climates, regions that have cool rainy winters and summers that are dry.  The bulbs from such regions come into growth when the rains commence in autumn, and are dormant in the summer.  In their native regions seeds ripen in early summer, some staying attached to the pod until the rains commence, others being scattered on the dry ground where they lie until there is enough moisture for them to germinate.  For gardeners accustomed to sowing annuals, this seems to be a surprise that many seeds need cold temperatures to germinate.  Indeed, heat would either be fatal to the germinating seed, or would completely inhibit germination of the seeds of Mediterranean climate bulbs.  To the left is a germinated seed of Lewisia rediviva.

For most of the bulbs native to the western USA I place the seeds in slightly dampened vermiculite in a ziplock bag, then put the bag in the refrigerator.  In an evening I can bag up dozens of species this way.  The bags are checked regularly, and the seeds are sown as soon as any sign of germination takes place. This saves me a great deal of time, making seed sowing spread out over the winter.  In addition, if I have bad batches of seed, I am not filling up greenhouse space and wondering whether to throw the pots out. I can tell after two or three months that nothing is happening.  Germination of the species native to the western USA takes anywhere from two weeks to four months, the longer period needed for the alpine species.  Here is a bag of germinated Calochortus kennedyi, ready for sowing. 

Seeds of bulbs from the western Cape Province of South Africa can't be handled in this manner, for they need a diurnal swing of at least ten degrees F. to facilitate germination.  If placed in the unvarying conditions of a refrigerator they would not germinate.  They are sown in situ in the greenhouses.  Tiny seeds, such as those of Lachenalia are left uncovered.  Here is a pot of freshly sown Gladiolus carinatus seed.  The gladiolus seeds will be covered with a thin layer of sand or seed starting mix.

Seeds of South American members of the Family Amaryllidaceae are sown when they ripen.  Most amaryllid seed does not keep for long, so it should not be stored for more than about three months before sowing.  These are also sown in ziplock bags, but they are kept at room temperature, since these species are not from Mediterranean climates, and are usually subtropical.  I keep them in my office at room temperature, which will average about 60F.  Here is a bag of germinated Hippeastrum mandoni seed. 

Growing bulbs from seed is an exciting and satisfying experience, but one that most gardeners have not attempted.  Many bulbous species will mature to flowering in three to four years, and you can grow species this way that are difficult to find in commerce.  The seed lists of plant societies offer a tempting array of unusual bulbous species, and there are small specialty seed companies that offer even more.

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Season's End

The shipping season is virtually over.  I can still ship some bulbs, but the winter-growing species that are in storage are sprouting and need to be planted.  In addition, most of the bulbs in pots need to be repotted before they are too far along in growth.  I leave my bulbs in their pots for two to three years, then the potting mix needs to be replaced, becoming deficient in nutrients and with salt buildup from fertilizer.  Disease organisms can also build up in old soil, and the soil becomes compacted from watering and breakdown.  The old potting mix I keep, if it doesn't look like it has any major problems, and I apply it to my flowerbeds.

Michelle and I have finished potting my Oxalis collection, a total of 541 pots, shown above.  I am delighted, and looking forward to the incredible display that will unfold over the winter.  This morning we cleaned seed that had been collected over the summer, putting the seed in small coin envelopes labeled with their botanical names.  We also sowed many California natives, by putting the seed in plastic bags in damp vermiculite.  The bags are placed in the refrigerator, and sown in pots as they germinate.  This is absolutely necessary for any species that come from high altitude, since they need a lengthy winter chilling before they will germinate.  I also handle a lot of the low elevation species this way, though, since it saves time.  I can bag up dozens of species in a very short time, place them in the refrigerator, and take out the bags when I see any sign of germination, and this spreads the seed sowing out over the winter.  You have to know what you are up to though, since some species, such as most of the South African ones, need a diurnal swing in temperature to germinate, so putting them in the refrigerator would not work.  It is a surprise to some people to find out that many seeds need cold temperatures to sprout, gardeners being more familiar with sowing the seeds of annuals and tomatoes, but all the winter-growing species, including Narcissus, Crocus, all the California natives and any from similar climates, must be sown in the autumn and exposed to cool temperatures.  I sow the great majority of seed at this time, since Telos grows so many bulbs from Mediterranean climates such as South Africa, California, Chile and the Mediterranean region, climates characterized by cool rainy winters and dry summers.

As one season ends, another begins, and this is the most exciting season of all at Telos Rare Bulbs.  Over the winter there will be a succession of bloom, and while winter rages outside, the greenhouses will be ablaze with color.  Right now there are just a few 'teasers', hinting at what lies ahead.  The Nerines are almost finished, but there are still plenty in bloom.  To the left is a beautiful hybrid I called 'Fiesta'.

The species Gladioli from the Cape Province of South Africa are starting into growth, with shoots visible in most of the pots.  One or two bloom in the fall.  Pretty little Gladiolus carmineus has already made an appearance, with its cheerful pink flowers appearing before the leaves emerge.  Here it is to the right. 

  Gladiolus stefaniae, seen here to the left, is a beauty, and just opened this morning.  In its native South Africa, it grows on steep cliffs in the spray of waterfalls, where it remains constantly moist in winter.  I should mention that the species Gladioli from the Cape Province of South Africa are nothing like the stiff gaudy hybrid Gladioli of commerce.  They are generally small and dainty in appearance, and are often sweetly scented.  There are other Gladioli that grow in summer, coming from other regions of Africa, and these formed the genetic basis of most the commercial Gladioli.  They are much larger, and more suitable for the garden.  I will post on Gladiolus later in the season.

A few Lachenalias are also starting to bloom, as well as Oxalis, mentioned in the previous post.  By Christmas there will be so much to see, Oxalis, Gladiolus, Lachenalias, more Crocus, some Narcissus, Tropaeolum, Romulea, and many more.  The display will peak in late winter when the California natives will be in full swing.  Who says winter is dull?

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Calostemma

There are not that many true bulbs native to Australia.  Mother Nature must have got bored by the time she got to that continent, deciding, from an evolutionary standpoint, to try something different.  The Duck Billed Platypus was her masterpiece, and kangaroos and wallabies are close seconds.

The enormous deserts of Australia needed plants that could withstand severe drought, so in their own independent Australian way, they developed a myriad of storage organs below ground that could store water, and get them through the hard times.  They take many forms, and I do grow just a few, but  since I mostly stick to bulbs, I will talk about one true bulb that is native to Australia, Calostemma purpureum.

This lovely bulb is widespread in Australia, and is usually purple, as seen above.  It is very easy to grow and flower, blooming at the end of summer, then producing its leaves throughout the winter, and going dormant in summer.  It can, I am told, tolerate summer water, although I let it go dry at that time.  I grow mine in five gallon pots, since they need to be planted deep.  They can take temperatures down to 24F, and could probably go lower if planted in the ground.  At one time my bulb collection was outside and unprotected, at which time I had problems with bulb fly in some members of the Family Amaryllidaceae, but Calostemma went through that period completely unscathed, maybe due to the depth of the bulbs.  They are vigorous and disease free, so I would strongly recommend them for California gardens, although I have never seen them growing anywhere.  Apparently, there are other colors in its native land, and I do have the yellow one, C. luteum (which some people think is just a color variation of C. purpureum), but after nine years since sowing the seed, I still haven't had a flower.  I was told they were slow from seed, but this is glacial.

The seeds themselves are interesting, since it is thought that they are not actually seeds at all but bulbils formed without the need of fertilization which are, therefore, genetically identical to the parent plant (this process, for the botanically minded, is called apomixis).  They are produced abundantly, and you can sow them, but then you wait, and wait, and wait some more.  Fortunately, the mature bulbs do offset.

I am really looking forward to the day when my yellow flowered Calostemmas will surprise me with a bud or two.  I know it will happen one day, and, when it does you will hear about it, rest assured.

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Boophane Revisited

My Boophane disticha seeds have ripened, and the umbel expanded to about twelve inches across.  The flower is seen at the left and was about four inches across.  Here's a picture of the umbel.

One umbel has already snapped off, and in its natural environment would go tumbling across the landscape, shedding ripe seeds as it went.  Boophane seeds are like small peas, but unlike peas they can't be dried and stored.  They will germinate immediately.  Such seeds are called recalcitrant seeds.

Now the beautiful fan of wavy grey leaves will develop.

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